A view of the remote Kau shoreline, looking north. (Courtesy Anthony Selvanathan)
By Anthony Selvanathan
Special to the Herald
As a local boy born and raised in the hustle and bustle of urban Honolulu, I must admit that I sometimes yearn for the “old Hawaii” that our kupuna often reminisce about.
In search of a taste of what life as a Catholic in rural Hawaii was like, I took the opportunity last month to make a weeklong visit to see my dear friend, Father William “Pila” Tulua. For the past three years he has shepherded the Catholic faithful in some of the most isolated parishes in our diocese, located in Hawaii island’s Kau district: Sacred Heart Church in Naalehu and Holy Rosary Church in Pahala.
I’m sure that many parents have heard the question, “Are we there yet?” when going on long road trips with their keiki. Here in the islands, the longest car ride that I’ve experienced is the journey from Hilo Airport heading south on Highway 11, as Father Tulua drove us to Naalehu, where his home base/rectory is.
Luckily for me, Father Tulua is an excellent and entertaining conversationalist, so the ride up and over Kilauea and through the desolate Kau desert flew by in no time at all.
Upon reaching Kau, the first thing that struck me was the sheer beauty that surrounded me. Looking mauka, one is treated to a view of the lush, green pastures that caress the slopes of Mauna Loa; looking makai, one sees the beautiful sea cliffs and shoreline, dotted with black-sand beaches.
To give you a sense of the isolated nature of Kau, there’s only one restaurant in Naalehu (Hana Hou) and the nearest grocery store (Malama Market) is some 13 miles away. Regardless of how isolated it can feel at times, Kau is still an idyllic place where the biggest annoyance one might experience is the famous coqui frogs that chirp at night — although I find their calls to be somewhat soothing.
What makes Naalehu and Pahala very special places that are dear to my heart is the ohana spirit that permeates the local community. Everyone still refers to their kupuna as “auntie” or “uncle,” and the parish atmosphere that Father Tulua cultivates is one of welcome, inclusivity and love.
After Mass, it’s not unusual to see parishioners stick around to talk story with Father Tulua and Deacon Joe Aglia, or to catch up with friends from church.
Although you might think that parish life is slow in an area as isolated as Kau, there is always something going on. As the pastor of the southeast quarter of Hawaii island, Father Tulua is always on the go: whether visiting the ill who are recuperating at Kau General Hospital; driving to Ocean View to bless a parishioner’s new farm, ranch or plantation; or collaborating with his secretary, Auntie Michelle Andrade, to coordinate the many sacraments that he celebrates between the two parishes.
If Father Tulua’s schedule doesn’t boggle your mind yet, he also celebrates Mass in Spanish for the plantation workers who work on the award-winning coffee farms in the area. He also celebrates the Byzantine liturgy for the Byzantine Catholic community in Honomu twice a month, some 77 miles away from his rectory in Naalehu.
In short, Kau is a welcoming place that I enjoy visiting when I need a break from it all — a place to visit when I need time to retreat and to bring myself closer to the Lord and his beauty when I’m distracted by the hustle and bustle of Oahu, and a place where I can still find a true experience of life in rural Hawaii, where the Catholic faith is lived out authentically every day.